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New Zealand Beekeeping
Bridging wax and plastic frames
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<blockquote data-quote="John B" data-source="post: 1887" data-attributes="member: 207"><p>I only just spotted this thread.</p><p>If you don't want the bees to stick the end bars to the box then get wooden frames. I don't know why bees don't respect the bee space with plastic frames but they don't and this makes for hard work removing the frames. If you really don't like wiring frames then use wooden frames with plastic foundation inserts.</p><p>When I make my own boxes I use timber thicknessed to 23 1/2 mm. 20 mm is far too thin. I was always under the impression that 20 mm was chosen because it was a nice round number but just because it's a nice round number doesn't make it sensible. Look at the hassles that 50 mm towballs has caused when if they just made them all the same size as the old ones life would be a lot easier and safer.</p><p>The important measurement in any hive is the distance between the end of the box and the end bar and it should be the same as the height of one bee .</p><p>As for how many frames in a honey box I have always used eight except for new foundation when I use nine and cut comb boxes which are 10. I know one large beekeeper who only uses seven frames for the honey box. Fatter frames are a lot easier to uncap properly and eight frames is two less frames to handle . I also only run nine frames in the brood boxes. It makes manipulation a lot quicker and reduces the risk of squashing the Queen. I hate inspecting hives with plastic frames or 10 frames to the box.</p><p>I have said this before. The old time beekeepers weren't stupid and if they did something they had a good reason to do it. Every time I have tried to improve on their methods I have found that they were right and I was wrong.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="John B, post: 1887, member: 207"] I only just spotted this thread. If you don't want the bees to stick the end bars to the box then get wooden frames. I don't know why bees don't respect the bee space with plastic frames but they don't and this makes for hard work removing the frames. If you really don't like wiring frames then use wooden frames with plastic foundation inserts. When I make my own boxes I use timber thicknessed to 23 1/2 mm. 20 mm is far too thin. I was always under the impression that 20 mm was chosen because it was a nice round number but just because it's a nice round number doesn't make it sensible. Look at the hassles that 50 mm towballs has caused when if they just made them all the same size as the old ones life would be a lot easier and safer. The important measurement in any hive is the distance between the end of the box and the end bar and it should be the same as the height of one bee . As for how many frames in a honey box I have always used eight except for new foundation when I use nine and cut comb boxes which are 10. I know one large beekeeper who only uses seven frames for the honey box. Fatter frames are a lot easier to uncap properly and eight frames is two less frames to handle . I also only run nine frames in the brood boxes. It makes manipulation a lot quicker and reduces the risk of squashing the Queen. I hate inspecting hives with plastic frames or 10 frames to the box. I have said this before. The old time beekeepers weren't stupid and if they did something they had a good reason to do it. Every time I have tried to improve on their methods I have found that they were right and I was wrong. [/QUOTE]
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