I am about to make my first batch of staples using a 27 L tub with a stainless steel rack that I got from beequip . It comes with instructions but there is no mention of how much oxalic\glycerin you need to make to do one batch. I have tried to ring them but couldn't get through.
Do you just need the bottom staples sitting in the solution or do the whole lot need to be covered. Most of the instructions are excellent when it comes to safety and mixing and they say how much is solution each strip should soak up but there is no instructions on how to actually soak the strips.
Thanks for any help you can give.
Kia ora John I have switched over to beequips stips etc this year for the first time.
Firstly I will say that I used to buy from Phil and
got amazing service and advice.
I
contracted him to soak my strips so they came ready to go into the hive.
I instructed him at what strength I wanted them soaked at. After the first time where I spelt out I was contracting him to soak on my behalf, each order was simply stated something along the lines of please send me 1000 strips as per the instructions of my original order. This covered him and me, every order he was contracted to soak my strips for me.
Being that we are one of the ones that sold honey at well below production costs I am still looking for ways to save money.
I will list this years journey.
I bought beequips tub and steel rack and their cardboard strips. These work out at 20 cents per strip roughly when the job is done. Would cost more if I paid staff to do it.
I was advised that as I have a wax Melter heat the glycerin in there then add the oxalic.
Yes the strips need quiet a covering as they swell and rise then the top ones are out of the solution.
I didn't separate the strips once the solution was soaked up to dry them, just left them.
Ended with gluggy but dry soaked strips, Not so easy to use but usable.
My wax melter is a very old Finlay one.
I take the back off the power box and change the temperature controls at will, for processing wax (and saving some honey)
The glycerin was heated to between 50-55 degrees, them the oxalic added stirred but got up to 50 degrees again, stirring until all is dissolved. ( I use 60% glycerin and 40% oxalic)
Trial and error
I have stopped using beequips bucket for soaking.
Throw half of the strips into the mix (the liquid now back at 50 degrees soaks quickly 2-4 hours
so may throw them in in the morning and when I come back at the end of the day, take out as many soaked ones as will fit on the top rail that goes from the center pole to the edge of the Melter.
next morning take those dry ones and lay them flat in a bin (they separate amazing are very easy to use)
Then hang over the rail the next lot that are fully soaked.
The process of completing a batch can take me upto 4 days but my system takes about 10 minutes total a day once the liquid is mixed.
I work on 1 box at a time, but not all in the Melter together (that doesn't work with the slopping Melter floor)
I like to keep the mix above 30 degrees as when things are drying this makes everything work more efficiently.
so I go to the shed in the morning and temp is dropping I turn the Melter back on while we get the Utes ready to go out on hives, (half to 1 hour) then turn it off, it raises the temp to keep things going efficiently. I check my temps with thermometers, the old Finlay seems to fluctuate within a range and I don't want my oxalic turning to formic.
I have my mask and gloves on hand ready. So now have a fast system,
we were nearly ready to go back to the efficiency of Phil's strips but have cut our costs in half by this system.
By keeping everything warm I never individualize the strips just deal in handfuls so this makes the process quick.
Other notes
up until this year have always placed strips hanging over frames. Sometimes straight down the middle, depending on hive strength and health other times alternating side to side (outside 1/3).
Started off the same this year but always loose some brood (used to with conventional strips at times as well)
so trialed laying strips flat on top of frames as does Randy Oliver with shop towels.
It seems to be working but must say are not doing so as standard practice yet, look at needs of hive.
If I see varroa then down the frames the strips go.
I am thinking there are fore's and against with both ways as far as efficiency of hive rounds and am still proving whether or not they work as well on the top of frames as down frames.
Hope this waffle is clear,
Sorry for two posts can someone fix I took to long to edit and got locked out. also pushed a wrong button and published halfway through. (old people)
