After lockdown and everybody has a haircut, will it still be called fringe beekeeping
Fringe beekeeping?
- Thread starter Timw
- Start date
Well the fringe in my garden is getting longer. This October swarm has gone nuts. I checked the 4th box a few days ago and virtual fully drawn after a couple of weeks. 2 end bars had cross comb - first time for a few years - which I divided (nectar only) and a reasonable chunk fell off. Went back today with a view to taping it up but the bees had already fixed it not crossed. Added 5th box. Thought of @tristan as I hefted top 2 boxes up together- gym work paying off!
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The same as any top bar hive without frames.
You can lift out the individual bars and then inspect them.
You need to be careful that you do not break off the comb when you are turning them.
Routine @Bee Real. Its an adaptation of Emile Warre’s design. The “frames” are a top bar with side bars - no bottom bar (although I’ve seen photos with bottom bars). No foundation so the bees build comb as they choose. Provided the bar spacing is reasonably accurate they don’t cross comb. I’ve had a couple of cross comb over the years - if you check for itearly it’s easily fixed.
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Trev - I add side bars - see reply below just now - so that helps secure comb v the topbar hive
Are you still making these, we are in the Kaimais and looking to try one for our small (tiny) farm, thanks, Rose.
@Dansar what wood did you use. I’ve used untreated radiate but it tends to warp a bit. I might use macrocarpa in future
There is a thermo dried radiata that I think is made into bee boxes, wonderful stuff. Perhaps from Whakatane way.
Tunnicliffes in Edgecomb, it's called thermowood. It is heated in a tube without enough oxygen to burn, which breaks down all the sugars etc that bacteria and fungi need to live, thereby making the timber rot proof.
It lasts well in houses etc, but I found in beehives it does not last much longer than untreated. Reason is it absorbs from the hive, nutrients that were removed by the heat process, but once they are replaced from the activities of the bees and soak into the wood, the timber can rot.
Tunnicliffes also have a product called Tan E, which is a reformulated tanalising designed to be bee safe, or so they claim. It's all I use now and very happy with it.
It lasts well in houses etc, but I found in beehives it does not last much longer than untreated. Reason is it absorbs from the hive, nutrients that were removed by the heat process, but once they are replaced from the activities of the bees and soak into the wood, the timber can rot.
Tunnicliffes also have a product called Tan E, which is a reformulated tanalising designed to be bee safe, or so they claim. It's all I use now and very happy with it.
i think that thermo wood also splits very easily. i think we tried some many years back and had no end of problems with boxes breaking.
I have had both tan E and Thermowood and find the former more durable but prefer the latter because it is chemical free. I paraffin dip them and so far I have not had any go rotten but they are brittle and quite soft (and a bit lighter). If your boxes aren't sitting completely square and bees can squeeze through the gap they will very quickly wear the edge of the timber away. Modern pine boxes even when dipped and painted have a very limited life especially when used in the brood nest. I have made boxes from old man pine and these are at least twice as heavy as young pine and last for decades.
Did wonder about that John, as the timber is very porous and would readily absorb wax, plus the wax would repel moisture and whatever else being absorbed into the wood.
Could be a good solution.
Like you, I found where there are gaps, the bees seem to chew into thermowood more readily than other wood.
Japanese cedar (cryptomeria) or Redwood are very good options. Make sure it is the heartwood.